Maletti: A True Positive In A World Gone Mad.

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Maletti Products Now Available In Pre Sliced Packs for Home Delivery

Over the last 8 weeks of lockdown, Ive been constantly reciting a litany of positives that have come about through our national incarceration. There are obvious things that leap to mind; Watching my baby daughter grow and change, spending more time with my girlfriend, granted its usually huddled over a soiled nappy or in the small hours of the morning trying to fit a pipette full of gripe water into a screaming child’s mouth. However aside from the obvious domestic positives, its been a time to linger a bit more over the hob, finish work on a few different recipes that had lingered in my notebooks and start playing around with a few different ingredients that previous to all this malarky, hadn’t been so easy to get, especially in the little red neck paradise I live in. Thankfully though, with Delitalia now delivering to thousands of little homes across the UK, this isn’t so much of an issue, especially when it comes to top quality meats that were previously only really available in restaurants. I am of course talking about Maletti, and most notably, their mortadella…

My girlfriends sister recently told me that the lockdown had caused a problem to their grocery supply lines. She said between her, her husband and the three kids they drink 24 pints of milk a week. I was visibly astonished. She couldn’t believe my surprise, busy families need cups of tea, cereal, bottles, draughts of  milky night time soporific. Milk fuels most families. Of course, the question was bounced back to me; what do we get through more than anything else in a week? Answer, embarrassingly and strangely, Mortadella.

Mortadella powers my little family. Ok clearly the baby isn’t on it, but without it her parents morale wouldn’t be as high, bottles and feeds would be less enthusiastic and story time wouldn’t be such a vaudevillian wheeze. We use mortadella in sandwiches, I drizzle it with a little honey and thyme as part of antipasti, fry it and cut it into cubes to eat with a cocktail stick, chop it into a frittata, mince it and toss it through thick pici pasta or It gets pulped and passed through rich fillings for toretllini and ravioli. Pass the most obvious barrier to employing it, its gnarly fat mottled barbie pink hue, and you have a product exploding with flavour and versatility.

The new range of pre sliced of Maletti meats, which include Bresaola di Punta d’Anca (the really tasty salmon fillet) hot Spianta, prosciutto crudo Italiano, Salame Milano, also has two much overlooked stalwarts of the Italian kitchen; prosciuto cotto (cooked ham) and my beloved mortadella. Not only do these two products sit perfectly on an antipasti board, but unlike the other meats in the range, work widely over a number of dishes. Now that Delitalia are selling the pre sliced packs of Maletti through the home delivery service, my family and yours now have a huge range of dishes that can be cooked out these products. So at the weekend, when I am sat on the astro turf patch I call my lawn, and I am thinking about all the things I have the lockdown to be thankful for, I will look to that pack of mortadella in the fridge, think on the dishes I can make with it and raise my eyes and hands to the sky in thanks.

Here are my top mortadella/prosciutto cotto inspired recipe ideas

Tortellini:

Tortellini is not nearly as difficult as people suppose. The tricky bit is probably the fold, however there are so many simple ways to do this, unless you are looking for the true Venus navel fold, you don’t have much to worry about. Filling wise, id say as long as you have ricotta or some other soft cheese, parmesan and mortadella you can make pretty much anything. The flavour of mortadella, the fattiness, that hint of myrtle, pepper, cinnamon means its a total flavour booster. All you need to do is blitz it and fold it through

Gatto di Patate:

Simply put, this is a Neapolitan dish comprised of some kind of cheese (provalone, mozzarella, scarmoza, fontina, all good) layered with mashed potato, occasionally peas and chopped pieces of mortadella or prosciutto cotto. Top comfort food but also not out of place in fine dining

Pici Mortadella:

I basically roll out some pici using a simple pasta dough recipes; heat a pan with a little butter and honey, throw in a handful of finely chopped mortadella and some thyme. Cook this very slowly and then after 3-4 minutes of cooking the pici in boiling water, tossed through. Its sweet, its meaty, fragrant, fatty and very good for what ails you

Polpettone:

I am going through a meatloaf phase. After living with a vegetarian for two months I cant think of a better way to get a huge dose of mince. I basically make a meatball recipe (pork, beef, fennel, chilli, bread crumbs, parsley, milk, parmesan) and add lots of chopped mortadella, not too fine though as its quite the humble joy to run into a huge berg of fatty mortadella. The mortadella goes through the meat perfectly, flavouring everything

Pizza Fritta:

If you happen to be staggering around Napoli in the early hours of the morning after sampling some of the local plastic cup wine, you are likely to end up face first in a scalding hot deep fried pizza, full of ricotta, fior di latter and some kind of chopped meat. You can recreate this at home really simply with our simple pizza dough recipe, a deep fryer, some ricotta and mortadella

Mortadella Mousse:

I have noticed our good friend Danilo Cortellini, exec chef at the embassy do this as a canape a few times. I don’t have the exact recipe, but I am assuming its probably a heady mix of mortadella,  cream, parmesan etc. Piped onto a crostini with some ground pistachio sprinkled over , Im sure your post lockdown guests will love it.

Risotto with Beer and Mortadella:

I would never usually order risotto in a restaurant, however when I found myself in the home of Menabrea Beer in Biella, I felt compelled to order this. Biella makes great beer and isnt too far from the Riso Acquerello operation, and the two go together well, especially with lots of mortadella cooked into it

 

Pizzaiolo Beginners Guide

When I was a kid, pizza was my nonna’s heavy, cardboard like crust with a scraping of leftover sugo from a previous nights dinner and if I was lucky, that blocky mozzarella you feel is better suited to as a buoyancy aide rather than something to be cooked with. In my teens, pizza either came from the freezer or was the perennial and purportedly “thin and crispy” roman style crust, all flimsy wet base, chewy crust, danish mozzarella and dried oregano. Then at some point between my 20’s and 30’s the UK got really serious about pizza, like tambourine banging, self flagellation sermon on the mounts serious. All of a sudden consumers were thrust into an arena of sourdough bases, 48 hour levitations, leoparding, hole structure and my least favourite one “lo-mo” (low moisture mozzarella cheese…) In nearly every way, this was an incredible moment in the rapidly moving love affair the British have with Italian food, a new epoch of pizza. From Aberdeen to Brighton, if you looked carefully you could find a pizza that wouldn’t be a million miles away from what you could be eating on the Via Tribunalli in Naples. The caveat to this however, was everything behind making a pizza, became really complex, really quickly.

There has never been a period in the history of pizza where when making your own at home you can get so lost, bamboozled or suffer from extreme feelings of inferiority because that piece of dough you lovingly worked from a handful of flour, 48 hours later fails to achieve leoparding on the crust and you are looking at 3 likes on instagram. I am sure I will invite criticism by saying this from the more evangelical members of the cult of pizza, but don’t panic. Don’t seek a session on the couch with Enzo Coccia or waste hours watching youtube videos hoping in vain that you might find that holy grail-like tip. Pizza is simple. It was really simple and basic in Napoli 300 years ago when Carlo Collodi described it as a burnt piece of dough, a black toasted bit of bread covered in sickly garlic, a right “patchwork of greasy filthy”

There is lots of really simple recipes out there to get you started in the world of pizza making. Its probably best to find one which you feel comfortable with and going from there. If you havent made bread before, just a simple loaf, Id recommend you do this first before attempting a pizza. Pizza isnt difficult once you understand how dough feels, moves and acts. Once you have done this, then you can start to think about pizza, but like I said start small and then start experimenting

Top 10 Pizza Kit Essentials

1. Dough scraper

It will bring your dough together, keep your bowls clean, your hands clean and your work surfaces clean.

2. Electronic scales

A good quality electric scales will be the difference between calamity and absolute victory.

3. Pyrex bowls

Its not a necessity but it does help if you want to watch your dough proving and avoid the fear of over proving.

4. A Pizza stone

I personally don’t use them in the home oven as I like the nostalgia of a baking tray, however if you do want to get as close to the real thing and don’t have the money for a pizza oven in your kitchen, they can give you a similar effect of a true stone baked pizza.

5. Some clear plastic bin liners or big plastic bags

No, its not because you will need extra bin liners to accommodate all the dough and failed pizza crusts you end up throwing away. I use these to cover my dough when its proving. The clear ones are good as you can still see the dough and know just the right time to stop and proving. Plus, they are reusable and in the long term, much cheaper than cling film.

6. A rolling pin

Just in case your dough isn’t playing ball

7. An oven safe frying pan

Again, a strange one, but frying pans are great if you are making a pizza in your home oven. You can place your base in the pan, top and place on the hob to start the base off, before putting into a hot oven to finish. Clean and simple, even better if you have a detachable handle

8. A measuring jug

Accuracy again, is key to creating a decent pizza.

9. A stand mixer

– if you can afford it, is a very worthwhile piece of kit and will save you a lot of time and muscle wastage.

10. A picture of either The Virgin Mary or Maradonna to hang close to the oven

It will make you feel like you are a true Neapolitan pizzaiolo and in turn build your confidence more than any 3 day intensive course in Naples itself could.

The first recipe is unashamedly, a basic bread recipe, id say this is your baby step into making pizza and forming, feeling and experimenting with this dough is going to be integral to progressing to more difficult, complex doughs that require a bit more tomfoolery and experience. This dough doesn’t require long proving times and is not going to coat you and every exposed part of your kitchen in a chewing gum-like dough that makes the blob moving into your a more preferable option than making dinner.

  • 500g 00 flour
  • 3g fresh yeast/10g dried yeast
  • 300ml lukewarm Water
  • 10g salt

Method:

– Mix the salt and flour together (you don’t want the yeast and salt to come into contact, so mix the salt really well and it will give it a little forcefield of flour to protect it)

– Mix the yeast and water together and let sit until the water develops a little bit of foam/surface bubbles

– Slowly add the water/yeast to the flour. Remember that flour has a tremendous capacity to suck up liquid so the more you mix the better.

– Once your dough is smooth and pliable and is no longer mottled, place it in a bowl, cover and leave for around 4 hours. I use a clear glass pyrex bowl so I can watch it and usually write the details of the dough on the bowl or cling film. Try and make sure the dough is left in a warm place, away from drafts.

– Once the dough has really doubled up youn need to knock it back to stop the levitation otherwise the dough will over prove .

– Punch the dough down and form into balls of equal weight, I usually go for about 200g

– Form the balls and cover with a little more flour and make sure again, they are covered with either a tea towel or clingfilm. You don’t want any air to get to the dough

– Once the dough balls have doubled up, you want to open them out. Its quite hard to describe how to do this so either watch the video, find a video or use a rolling pin. All I would say is that you want to push the dough out from the centre to form a crust, rotating and moving the dough as you go along to create the base.

– Once the dough is opened up into the pizza base, you need to top it and put it in the oven as high as possible. I leave the cheese off and put it on once the base is baked so it doesn’t get too brown or burnt.

Sauce

I am loathed to do much more than get a really good passata or can of whole tomatoes, crush them down, add a good pinch of salt, lots of torn basil, extra virgin olive oil and a twist of pepper.

When you start cooking a tomato sauce, you concentrate it, it becomes a bit jammy and I like my pizza sauce to be light and still quite fresh tasting so again, I wouldn’t really recommend cooking out a sauce. The time the pizza will have in the oven will give it exactly the right amount of cooking time it needs and leave that sparky, fresh taste of the tomatoes one of the main stars of the show

In a few of the restaurants I worked in, the pizzaiolo’s would add different additions depending on their own locality, but it was really nothing more than maybe a pinch of good quality dried oregano, very finely sliced garlic, a little chopped anchovy or a pinch of chilli. Remember less is more with a pizza.

All I would say is that don’t go over the top, keep it light, simple and don’t think that a ragu is the best way to layer that ground work of flavour for a pizza.

Other vegetables make great bases, not just the tomato. One of my favourites is to make a Genovese finto. This is basically a load of onions, sweated down for about 40 minutes with some salt, olive oil, a bay leaf and a few peppercorns. You need to add a bit of water and sugar too. You get this really moorish, sweet sauce that works brilliantly with some fiore di latte and fresh chive.

Recipe 2:

This recipe is a little more advanced and should give you a lighter crust. You will need some fridge space or somewhere cool for this to rest over night. I sometimes cover this dough and leave it by the back door or in the porch where it will stay a little colder and the reaction will take longer. You can do this recipe by hand, but I would really recommend doing it in a stand mixer. If you don’t have a stand mixer, you will probably need to have a dough scraper to work with the dough as it will be quite wet.

  • 500g 00 flour
  • 350ml water
  • 2g fresh yeast
  • 10g salt

– Mix the water and the yeast together, and as before, wait for the yeast to start producing bubbles

– Mix the flour and the salt together

– Slowly add the water and integrate well into the flour.

– The dough is going to be wet, so id advise working on the kitchen table on a wipe clean tablecloth, the type you would probably bring back from a trip to Italy. You know the type, plastic and adorned with lemons.

– Work the dough for a good 20-30 minutes, cover and leave over night. When you come down in the morning it should be a flat surface, but nearly reaching the top of the bowl.

– I knock this back again, and add a little extra flour before forming into balls and letting rest until I need to cook. You want to make sure that the dough has half an hour out of the fridge before you start to form the base as it will be too tight to open out.

Worth Remembering:

I wish someone had told me when I first started making bread, that sometimes things go wrong that are totally out of your control. Ovens may have dodgy seals, yeast may have died, the wind may be blowing in the wrong direction, the temperature may plunge or soar, humidity etc etc. Lots of things can affect your dough, so do not despair if things don’t turn out perfect.

When I decided I really wanted to learn how to make bread, I just would buy some cheap flour and yeast and put aside a day now and again to get a real feel for it all. Id weigh out everything, even water, and make notes. Id experiment with different temperatures and moisture levels until I started to understand what was happening a bit more. So to reiterate, when you are making your pizza don’t despair if it doesn’t look like the experts you follow on social media or have seen in a cook book. It is a skill to make bread, and like all skills it requires a little time, patience and investing in. Remember, whatever you do will more than likely be edible so its not all bad and you will have fun getting there.

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